Use of correct mapping to get a completed look.
What is lash mapping and why do we need it?
Lash mapping is a very important part of your preparation. Everything requires a good plan, just like making a to do list to plan your day ahead helps you to be organized, less stressed and satisfied at the end of the day when you have completed your list, mapping ahead and carefully planning what length and curls we are going to use makes the whole process of application easier. You can then switch off and just enjoy the lash application process without thinking and trying to remember which lashes to use where. Especially when you correct someone’s eye shape and work with layers. All faces are asymmetrical, so sometimes you can end up using different lengths on different eyes, and mapping will help you to achieve the best result. Decide on style in advance and reflect it with your mapping.
Mapping is marking lines and dots at certain points when planning on use of certain lengths and curls, thicknesses and points of transition from one size to another.
When you map on an eye pad/patch or tape you should use a marker pen, when you map on a skin you can use any non waterproof makeup (brow/eyeliner) pencil.
Why do we need to map?
It is a wide-spread belief that mapping is something which is useful for beginners, but once you get more experience it’s not really necessary. I definitely think that it’s not the case because it gives you the following benefits:
– Mapping helps to plan points of transition between different sizes- Mapping helps to achieve symmetry in application on both eyes.
– Mapping can correct asymmetry of client face/eyes/brows. It is easier to predict asymmetry and plan ahead how to fix it by using different sizes on the left and right eyes.
– Mapping helps to make the process of application easier and more enjoyable
– Mapping helps you to plan direction of extensions.
Work with the client.
You need to properly ‘examine’ the client’s face and the easiest way to take a picture like for id/passport. It will help you to see the 1 (for example: if eyes down turned, upturned), brow line (pay attention how low or high eyebrows sit on a client face), deep set or protruded eyes.
If you see very strong asymmetry in the client’s face , it is best to use a makeup pen and mark dots on the top lid where you are planning to move to a longer or shorter length.
Always check the direction of natural lashes. For example if they grow up you should avoid strong curls.
Pay attention to both eyes as direction can vary from eye to eye and even within the same eye. At this stage you need to decide on the following:
-what effect/ style you are going for-direction of your extensions-volume (classic, volume, fans, hybrid set)
-thickness
-length
-curl
-layers (if you work on layers and combine different sizes)
-classic, flat, pre-mades of combination of these lashes-colour (if you are going to add colours to this set).
Prep your client lashes for application, clean, rinse, dry lashes, apply eye pads/patches or tape and let’s start with mapping:
1. Mark the start and the end of the lash line (just put dots in inner and outer corners). If you notice that the lash line on one eye is longer than on the other one, discuss this with your client and explain that he/she has more lashes on one eye than the other and so you will need to skip a few lashes to make the final result symmetrical
2. Mark the zone of the inner corner (10-15 lashes) and always use short lengths, ideally start with 5mm. I think 5mm, 6mm, or 7mm are the best lengths for inners.
3. Mark the zone where you are going to put the longest lashes (usually either the center of the eye or under the highest point of the eyebrow arch – depends on the style/effect you are going for).
4. Fill sizes in between from the inner corner to your longest zone without skipping any lengths
5. Downsize from the longest zone to the outer corner. (Don’t overload natural lashes in outer corners)
6. Your lines should show the direction of extensions.
When you are using different curls on the same set and work with different lengths on layers there are certain rules that should be followed and I will try to cover these in another post.
Personally, I think that our Advance Gel Pads work absolutely great for mapping and they also offer good separation from bottom lashes.
My favorite luxury strongest pads that are super soft and gentle for the clients’ skin are Hydrogel Pads, you can use them on their own or on top of the Advanced Gel Pads giving more space for mapping and the strongest hold.
You can use any thin marker or gel pen as a mapping pen.
You can check the video of a very basic natural effect mapping.